Bengal’s textile industry flourished spectacularly during the Mughal period, roughly spanning the 16th to 18th centuries. This era marked a golden age of craftsmanship, innovation, and global trade that positioned Bengal as one of the world’s leading producers of fine fabrics. The region’s exquisite muslin, jamdani, silk brocades, and cotton textiles became symbols of luxury and culture, reaching distant markets from Europe to the Middle East.
Under Mughal rule, Bengal enjoyed political stability, imperial patronage, and access to extensive trade networks. These factors combined to create a thriving environment for weavers and artisans. This article explores the richness of Bengal’s textile heritage during the Mughal era—covering the art and craft of muslin and jamdani weaving, the organisation of the textile industry, the global trade connections, and the cultural significance of these fabrics.
The Political and Economic Context of Mughal Bengal
When the Mughals gained control over Bengal in the early 1500s, the region was already known for its rich textile traditions. However, Mughal governance brought unprecedented stability and prosperity, which were vital for large-scale artisanal production.
The Mughal emperors implemented policies that fostered the growth of Bengal’s textile sector. They provided tax incentives, land grants to artisans, and promoted the establishment of market towns where weavers, dyers, and merchants could thrive. Bengal’s fertile land and extensive river networks facilitated the growth of raw materials like cotton and silk, supporting large-scale textile manufacturing.
Trade was a priority under the Mughals, and Bengal’s strategic location along the Bay of Bengal made it an essential hub for maritime commerce. Ports such as Chittagong and Sonargaon became gateways for exports to Southeast Asia, the Middle East, and Europe. This enabled Bengal textiles to reach a vast and diverse clientele.
Muslin: The Fabric of Kings and Nobles
Muslin was the crown jewel of Bengal’s textile heritage. This ultra-fine cotton fabric was woven with such finesse that it seemed almost weightless, yet it retained remarkable strength. Muslin was so delicate that it was often called “woven air” or “woven wind.” According to historical records, the finest muslin could pass through a ring without tearing and fold into a tiny knot that could fit inside a small container.
The city of Dhaka was the epicentre of muslin production. Here, highly skilled weavers worked in workshops that often employed entire families, with techniques passed down over generations. The secret to the extraordinary fineness lay in the hand-spun yarn, produced from a unique variety of cotton known as Phuti karpas, cultivated in Bengal’s alluvial plains.
Mughal emperors greatly prized muslin. They wore muslin robes embroidered with gold and jewels, and these fabrics adorned royal courts and noble households. Beyond the imperial sphere, muslin saris were popular among the Bengali elite and the aristocracy of neighbouring regions.
The Art of Jamdani Weaving
Jamdani is a supplementary weft technique that blends artistry and weaving to create intricate, floral and geometric patterns directly in the fabric. This textile tradition is believed to have roots in Bengal dating back centuries but blossomed spectacularly under Mughal patronage.
Unlike embroidered cloth, jamdani designs are woven into the fabric itself, making the motifs an integral part of the textile rather than an afterthought. This painstaking technique requires exceptional skill and patience, with artisans often weaving small sections of the pattern one motif at a time.
Jamdani was especially popular among Mughal nobles and was considered a symbol of sophistication and cultural refinement. It combined Persian and Bengali artistic influences, reflecting the cultural syncretism of Mughal Bengal. The motifs often featured stylised flowers, vines, and abstract geometric shapes.
Like muslin, jamdani was primarily produced in Dhaka but also in surrounding regions. Its prestige and beauty ensured high demand in local markets and for export.
Silk and Brocade Production in Bengal
While cotton dominated Bengal’s textile production, silk was another vital component of the Mughal textile economy. Bengal’s silk industry grew considerably during this period, producing rich, luxurious fabrics for the nobility and for export.
Silk weaving in Bengal focused on brocade fabrics—silk textiles woven with gold and silver threads to create elaborate designs. These fabrics adorned royal garments, courtly costumes, and were often gifted as honours or diplomatic presents.
The imperial workshops, or karkhanas, oversaw production and ensured quality. Weavers specialised in various styles, including zari (metal thread) embroidery and intricate patterns that rivalled those produced in other parts of the Mughal empire, such as Delhi and Agra.
Bengal’s silk and brocade products were highly prized in regional and global markets, adding to the region’s wealth and reputation.
Organisation and Guilds: Crafting Excellence
The Mughal textile industry in Bengal was highly organised. Weavers and artisans operated within guilds, known locally as jamaats or mahajans, which regulated training, quality, and pricing. These guilds preserved craft secrets and maintained standards, ensuring that Bengal’s textiles retained their exceptional reputation.
Artisans specialised in various roles—spinning cotton and silk yarn, dyeing with natural colours like indigo and madder, weaving fine muslin and jamdani, and embellishing fabrics with embroidery or gold thread. Women contributed significantly, especially in spinning and preparing yarn.
Workshops were often family-run, with knowledge transmitted through generations. This system created a sustainable ecosystem for textile production that was closely tied to Bengal’s social fabric.
The Dyeing Craft: Colour and Quality
Natural dyes were essential to Bengal’s textile artistry. Indigo was particularly important, providing a vibrant and lasting blue that became synonymous with Bengal’s fabrics. Madder yielded rich reds, while turmeric and other plants offered yellows and greens.
Dyers developed sophisticated techniques to fix colours permanently without damaging the delicate fabrics. The resulting vibrant textiles appealed to both local consumers and international buyers.
Colour choices also reflected cultural preferences and social status. Royal courts favoured rich hues like crimson, deep blues, and gold tones, while simpler cottons displayed subtler shades.
Global Trade and European Demand
The Mughal period coincided with increasing European interest in Bengal’s textiles. Portuguese, Dutch, British, and French traders established factories and trading posts along Bengal’s coast to source muslin, jamdani, silk, and cotton textiles.
Bengal’s fabrics were a luxury item in European markets. Aristocrats coveted muslin saris and brocades for their delicate beauty and exotic origins. This demand led to flourishing export markets through Bengal’s ports, connecting the region to the global economy.
European companies like the British East India Company and the Dutch East India Company aggressively sought Bengal textiles, sometimes disrupting local production with their growing influence. Nonetheless, Bengal remained a dominant textile exporter during the Mughal era.
Social and Cultural Significance of Textiles
Textiles in Mughal Bengal were much more than commodities. They carried cultural, social, and symbolic meanings. Clothing signified one’s social rank, religion, and regional identity.
The fine muslin sari, for instance, was an emblem of elegance and purity. Mughal elites wore elaborately embroidered shawls and silk robes that reflected their status and cultural sophistication.
Textile motifs often drew from Mughal and Persian influences, blending with Bengali folk traditions. This fusion created a unique artistic heritage.
Moreover, textile production was a livelihood for millions, embedded deeply in Bengal’s rural and urban communities. Women, men, and children all played roles in sustaining this rich craft tradition.
Challenges and Early Decline
Despite its flourishing, Bengal’s textile industry faced challenges by the late Mughal period. The increasing dominance of European colonial powers, particularly the British, began to disrupt traditional trade patterns.
The British East India Company’s growing control over Bengal after the Battle of Plassey (1757) initiated shifts in economic policies favouring British manufactured textiles. This began to undermine the artisanal weaving economy.
Political instability and the decline of imperial patronage also impacted the craft communities. Though Bengal remained a textile centre, the golden era of Mughal textile glory gradually faded as colonial economic pressures intensified.
The Enduring Legacy of Mughal Bengal’s Textiles
The Mughal period stands as a defining chapter in Bengal’s textile history. It was an era of extraordinary creativity, technical mastery, and vibrant trade that placed Bengal at the heart of global textile markets.
The legacy of this golden age survives today in traditional weaving techniques like jamdani, which remain cherished and protected cultural heritage. Understanding this rich history offers insight into Bangladesh’s deep artisanal roots and its ongoing global significance in textiles.
Bengal’s Mughal-era textiles remind us of a time when craft, commerce, and culture intertwined to create fabrics that were truly works of art—woven not just with cotton and silk, but with history itself.
