Long before Bangladesh became the global powerhouse of ready-made garment exports, the region that was once known as Bengal stood proudly as a cradle of textile craftsmanship and cultural artistry. The textile story of Bengal dates back to ancient times—well before colonial rule, factory machines, or global fashion trends. It was a time when every thread was spun by hand, every design carried ancestral knowledge, and every piece of cloth reflected the skill, pride, and heritage of the land.
The geography and climate of Bengal naturally favoured the cultivation of high-quality cotton. Soft, fertile soil deposited by the Ganges, Brahmaputra, and Meghna rivers created perfect conditions for the growth of phuti karpas, a fine cotton plant unique to this region. This rare cotton would become the raw ingredient of one of the most legendary fabrics the world has ever known—Dhakai Muslin.
Historical evidence suggests that textile production in Bengal existed at least as early as the 3rd century BCE. References to Bengal’s cloth can be found in the writings of ancient Greek, Roman, and Chinese travellers and historians. The Greek geographer Ptolemy, writing in the 2nd century CE, noted that Bengal (then part of the wider Gangaridai region) had established trade routes for its fine cottons. Roman historian Pliny the Elder also mentioned Indian textiles being imported to Rome, where they were considered luxury goods.
But beyond economic trade, the textile tradition in ancient Bengal was deeply embedded in society. Weaving and spinning were not just occupations—they were often familial legacies. Generations passed down the techniques orally or through practice, with localised variations in patterns, textures, and dyeing styles. Entire villages specialised in weaving, while others produced thread or managed the intricate dyeing process. Women played a particularly vital role in spinning, often using simple charkas (spinning wheels) while sitting in courtyards or by the river.
Perhaps the most extraordinary achievement of ancient Bengal was the creation of Muslin, a fabric that would earn near-mythical status across continents. Woven from the ultra-fine phuti karpas, it was so light that it was famously described as “woven air.” Some records claim that a full sari could be folded to fit inside a matchbox, and eight-yard lengths could pass through a ring. Muslin garments were worn by Roman nobles, Arab traders, and eventually Mughal emperors, who reserved the finest varieties for royal use.
Crafting muslin was a painstaking process. Only in the humid climate near the Buriganga River could the delicate cotton fibres be spun without breaking. The threads were so fragile that even the weaver’s breath had to be controlled. The weavers—often from specialised sub-castes—worked in near silence for days at a stretch. It could take months to produce just one piece of premium muslin. Despite the labour, the prestige of the craft attracted great pride and spiritual satisfaction.
Muslin production wasn’t confined to Dhaka alone. Regions such as Sonargaon, Rajshahi, and Chandpur were also famed for their weavers. While Dhaka produced the sheerest muslin, Sonargaon specialised in embroidered varieties with floral and geometric motifs. These textiles were exported across Asia and Europe via ancient land and maritime Silk Routes. Arab and Persian traders, arriving through ports like Chittagong, took Bengal’s fabrics as far as Egypt and Morocco. Textiles from Bengal were often bartered for spices, horses, and precious metals.
Muslin wasn’t the only fabric Bengal was known for. There were coarser cottons for everyday use, handloom silk from Murshidabad, and indigo-dyed fabrics that served both domestic and export markets. Jamdani, a technique of weaving floral designs directly into the fabric on the loom, also has roots in ancient Bengal and later flourished under the Mughals. Jamdani’s roots lie in the fusion of Persian motifs and Bengali craftsmanship, though the art likely predates even that cultural exchange.
Textile production in ancient Bengal was also closely tied to religion, rituals, and social customs. Certain patterns or colours were worn during weddings, funerals, or harvest festivals. Garments were imbued with symbolic meanings—white cotton for purity, red for fertility, and indigo for protection. Even temple offerings often included cloth as a sacred element. Buddhist monasteries during the Gupta period maintained weaving units to produce cloth for monks. In Hindu households, weaving was part of daily life and spiritual devotion.
The cultural significance of clothing and textile went far beyond function. It reflected class, caste, gender, and geography. Nobility wore the finest muslin or silk; farmers wore thick, sturdy cotton; fishermen draped themselves in breathable fabric suited for river life. The design of a sari, the cut of a dhoti, or the wrap of a turban could tell someone’s social story at a glance. For women, hand-woven textiles were often part of their dowry, carried across generations as heirlooms.
Despite the flourishing nature of the industry, challenges were not unknown. Political upheaval, natural disasters, and competition from other regions would sometimes disrupt trade. As kingdoms rose and fell—such as the Mauryas, Guptas, Palas, and Senas—patronage of arts and crafts also shifted. The need for royal support and stable governance was crucial for the continuation of fine arts like muslin weaving, which depended on time, peace, and economic surplus.
By the late ancient period, Bengal’s reputation as a textile centre was well-established globally. When Arab travellers like Al-Masudi and Ibn Battuta visited India in the 9th and 14th centuries respectively, they noted Bengal’s textile wealth and skilled artisans. These observations would later inspire traders, missionaries, and eventually colonial powers to turn their attention toward the riches of the region.
The brilliance of ancient Bengal’s textile legacy remains a source of national pride in modern Bangladesh. Yet this golden age was not eternal. With the arrival of the Mughal Empire, Bengal’s textile industry would enter a new chapter—marked by court patronage, peak exports, and eventually, brutal decline under colonial rule. The ancient foundation, however, would always remain—the memory of a time when threads carried the soul of a nation.
