A Forgotten Chapter in Bangladesh’s Textile Story
When people hear “Bangladesh” and “textile industry”, they immediately think of the country’s globally dominant ready-made garment (RMG) sector — the second-largest in the world after China. But few pause to ask: How did we get here?
Before the factories, the billions in exports, and the massive female workforce, there was a period of quiet struggle, improvisation, and preparation. The years between 1947 — when the Partition of India split Bengal in two — and the early 1980s are often overlooked. Yet, this was a time when tailors, technocrats, aid workers, and entrepreneurs planted the seeds of Bangladesh’s textile revolution.
This article revisits that forgotten era — a time when the country lacked industrial infrastructure, had just emerged from war, and was navigating political instability. Despite these odds, Bangladesh laid the groundwork for its future success in textiles. This is the story of that transformation.
1. The Decline of Colonial Textile Infrastructure (Post-1947)
The Partition of 1947 divided Bengal, with West Bengal going to India and East Bengal becoming East Pakistan. This geographic and political division tore apart the traditional textile ecosystem. Many experienced Hindu weavers and traders left for India, creating a vacuum in expertise.
Under Pakistani rule, industrial policy was West Pakistan-centric. East Pakistan — despite being the larger population centre — received far fewer investments in manufacturing and infrastructure. Jute mills, spinning centres, and colonial-era handloom cooperatives were left to decay.
Yet, all was not lost.
In places like Tangail, Sirajganj, and Pabna, traditional weavers continued to operate small-scale handlooms, producing saris, lungis, and gamchhas. Though marginalised, these handloom clusters preserved critical knowledge, employed rural labour, and kept the textile spirit alive.
2. Tailoring and Small Garment Units: The Quiet Contributors
The 1950s and 1960s were not marked by massive factories — but by a boom in tailoring shops and household garment units. In Dhaka, Narayanganj, Khulna, and Chattogram, small tailoring businesses thrived. They catered to wedding orders, school uniforms, office clothing, and seasonal attire.
Though informal, these tailoring hubs became training grounds for thousands of young men (and later, women). Skills such as sewing, pattern drafting, measurement taking, and finishing were passed down through apprenticeships. Many of these tailors would go on to become managers, supervisors, or even owners in the RMG boom of the 1980s.
Interestingly, institutional clothing orders such as school uniforms or police attire gave these small businesses financial stability and taught them the importance of bulk production, timeliness, and standardisation — all key components in future RMG practices.
3. State-Led Industrial Attempts in the 1960s
Despite systemic neglect, the 1960s did see attempts at industrialisation. Pakistan established the East Pakistan Industrial Development Corporation (EPIDC) to foster industry in East Pakistan.
A few textile mills were established during this time — such as Karnaphuli Textiles in Chattogram and Rajshahi Textile Mills. While they often suffered from inefficiency and poor management, they played a pioneering role.
Even more important were the industrial zones created in Tejgaon (Dhaka) and Kalurghat (Chattogram). These estates would become home to future RMG factories.
Meanwhile, technical training institutions began emerging. Textile education was modest but growing. Some engineers received overseas scholarships, especially to Britain, India, and later, Eastern Europe — adding vital technical knowledge to Bangladesh’s human capital.
4. 1971 Liberation War: Devastation and Opportunity
The 1971 Liberation War changed everything. The war resulted in the destruction of many mills, the flight of industrialists, and a near-collapse of the economy.
Bangladesh emerged independent, but industrial capacity was minimal. The national mood, however, was resilient. The newly formed government nationalised key industries under the Bangladesh Textile Mills Corporation (BTMC) to prevent total collapse.
Though the nationalised model suffered from inefficiency, BTMC offered mass employment and began to slowly build administrative and technical capacity. The spirit of self-reliance, post-war patriotism, and growing donor aid from countries like Sweden, Japan, and the Netherlands also helped.
Critically, NGOs began to flourish — often with foreign funding — and would play a powerful role in shaping labour and skill-building ecosystems.
5. The First Export Experiments and Global Shifts
By the late 1970s, a small but visionary group of Bangladeshi entrepreneurs saw opportunities in export-oriented garment production.
The landmark moment came in 1978, when Desh Garments signed a joint venture agreement with Daewoo Corporation of South Korea. Under this deal, 130 Bangladeshi workers were sent to South Korea for training in mass garment production, machine operations, and factory management.
On their return, many of them stayed with Desh, while others joined or founded their own businesses — thus creating a pipeline of trained professionals.
Global trade dynamics also helped. The Multi-Fibre Arrangement (MFA) restricted exports from giants like China and India, opening up space for “least developed countries” (LDCs) like Bangladesh. This gave Bangladeshi exporters a rare window into European and North American markets.
Even before large-scale RMG exports, Bangladesh was stitching military uniforms, nightwear, and children’s garments for European wholesalers — small but meaningful orders that tested quality and export readiness.
6. The Role of NGOs and Women’s Empowerment
Another crucial — and often under-acknowledged — force was the NGO sector. Organisations like BRAC, World Vision, and Caritas ran skills training centres in urban and peri-urban areas, teaching young women how to sew.
At the time, female employment outside the home was deeply taboo. But as rural poverty intensified and migration to Dhaka and Chattogram grew, families accepted that women needed income.
By the early 1980s, thousands of women who had learned basic sewing skills in NGO programmes began working in the newly opened garment factories. These women were the first generation of RMG workers.
This was transformative:
- It delayed early marriage.
- It improved child nutrition.
- It gave women a voice in household decisions.
- And it began to normalise female wage work in conservative communities.
By 1985, more than 80% of RMG workers were women — a pattern that continues today.
7. The Rise of Urban Hubs and the Industry Ecosystem
Throughout the 1970s and early 1980s, Dhaka and Chattogram developed as the core industrial centres. Dhaka’s Mirpur, Tejgaon, and Mohammadpur areas saw the early clusters of garment factories. In Chattogram, Kalurghat and Agrabad zones hosted new industrial units.
These cities benefitted from:
- Existing infrastructure
- Ports and transport
- Urban labour pools
- Donor and government support
Meanwhile, Narayanganj, known as the “Dundee of the East”, began adapting from jute to garments. Traders and tailoring families began to invest in second-hand sewing machines imported from Japan and Singapore.
To support the emerging sector, the government introduced:
- Bonded warehouse facilities (allowing duty-free import of raw materials)
- Back-to-back letters of credit (LCs)
- Export Processing Zones (EPZs) in places like Savar and Chattogram
- The formation of BGMEA in 1983, to advocate for the sector
All of this turned the trickle of exports into a wave.
Conclusion: The Hidden Bridge to Bangladesh’s RMG Success
By the mid-1980s, Bangladesh had made its mark in the global garment trade. But this wasn’t an overnight success. It was built on decades of silent struggle, experimentation, and resilience.
The weavers of Tangail, the tailors of Narayanganj, the technocrats at EPIDC, the NGO trainers in Korail slum — all played roles in preparing Bangladesh for its RMG future.
These pre-RMG decades (1947–1983) were full of fragile yet determined efforts — shaping skills, changing mindsets, and building institutions. They remind us that no boom happens in isolation. Before every explosion of success lies years of forgotten groundwork.
Understanding this history is more than an academic exercise. It teaches us that progress comes slowly, often quietly — built on the labour of unsung heroes, the grit of local tailors, and the courage of women breaking social norms to stitch together a better life.
